Ryoan-ji

On a popular bus route map of Kyoto city, you would find a strange small picture of some rocks. It is called Ryoan-ji or Ryoan Temple. It lies on the outskirts of the city, taking around 30 minutes by bus. It is easy to attract visitors as it is listed as one of the UNESCO Heritages and was nicely drawn on the map. But does it live up to their expectations?

My opinion doesn't represent the majority, but most of them would say 'no' after the visit. Coming from far away to see what is so special about it, they would find nothing but several rocks placed at intervals. They would return disappointed because there is simply nothing there, just several rocks placed at intervals. No magnificent shrine, no enormous Buddha statue, and no thousand gates. Some visitors would try to interpret the scenery, but Ryoan-ji's interpretation is always up to the mind of the beholder.

I remember the first time I came to see Ryoan-ji in person. I sat on the veranda. Visitors passing by mostly mumbled,

"Is that all?"

"Just rocks over pebbles."

"How are we supposed to see this?"

On the other hand, I was dazed and couldn't help but watch it with a strange feeling. If people asked which thing resembles myself, I would say Ryoan-ji. Just like the rocks, I stayed sturdy in my place, rarely inviting people. However, some people would come over out of curiosity. Thinking they would find something exciting, I only had simplicity, almost nothingness. Some people found beauty in it, while others expected more, found none, and eventually left.

As much as its modest appearance, its feeling is not fancier either. If people are happy with it, it is also happy. If people make it sad, it might hold back its tears as well. If people grow flowers around it, it will also learn to take care of them. If there's something that Ryoan-ji chooses to be stubborn about, it will never hate people who leave it due to disappointment.

Ryoan-ji has stayed in its place for a hundred years, holding on through storms, earthquakes, heat, and mockery. You could try throwing anything at Ryoan-ji. It would hurt a bit; as you can see, some parts are scratched. But no matter how many scars it has, Ryoan-ji won't throw you back. Ryoan-ji knows that humans have and will go through several processes in life that are sometimes too cruel to bear. Ryoan-ji might not be able to comfort you, but it tries not to add any cruelty to your shoulders. Ryoan-ji might have forgiven you even before you came and accepted your human flaw even before you realised it. Ryoan-ji might not be able to accompany you, but it constantly prays for your safety and happiness throughout your journey.

But it's not that Ryoan-ji has no tears. Who said that Ryoan-ji was not scared of darkness or feeling cold during harsh winters? In order not to make anyone worry and leave with more disappointment on their faces, it chose to keep everything to itself and stood tall through everything. Ryoan-ji's happiness and tranquillity might be more like a void than a truism. While it is undoubtedly true that Ryoan-ji cherishes those who accept it for what it is from the beginning, it also secretly hopes that everyone who comes with expectations will also accept it for what it is someday: for its nothingness and imperfections.

Ryoan-ji, no matter how many people have chosen and will choose to leave it, will stay there and always welcome those who return and pray for happiness for those who don't.

Glasgow, 14/4/2017

Intan

The picture is sourced from a personal gallery.